Knowing your hair type is important because it offers a better understanding of its qualities. Being aware of what your hair needs and where its weaknesses lie allows you to provide it with the specific care that will help it thrive. Curly hair can be particularly demanding, as it dries up fast and is prone to frizzing and hair breakage.
If you’re wondering what type of curly hair you have and what you can do to keep it beautiful and healthy, this article has all the answers you need, such as:
There are four major hair types, classified by strand curvature, as well as texture and pattern, each with its own 3 subtypes. Take a close look at your hair’s general appearance, feel it for a moment and see in which of these categories it might fit best.
This is the straightest, finest type of hair. There is no curvature within each hair fibre, and your hair is naturally smooth, soft and silky, so getting volume in your hair can be tricky. While Type 1A hair is generally very thin and has no curves whatsoever, its other two subtypes can have a slightly fuller body and wave slightly towards the ends.
This hair type is known for its S-shaped waves, which can range from loose to well-defined. While wavy hair is usually smooth, its coarseness can vary from one person to another. Type 2A hair is fine and barely arched, similar to type 1C hair. Type 2B and 2C are coarser, with tighter waves that start to curve close to your hair roots.
Curly hair will be explored in detail within this article. It is on the coarser side, characterised by ringlets or spirals of various patterns and diameters. This hair type has plenty of bounce and volume and special care is often needed to keep it smooth and tangle-free.
Also known as afro hair, type 4 hair is coily and kinky, with angled, Z-shaped patterns. Afro-textured hair is typically thick and coarse, with very tight coils that may be the size of a pencil tip. This hair type is very voluminous, so much so that it can appear fluffy. It can also get dry and frizzy very easily, so frequent maintenance is required to keep it healthy and beautiful.
If you are still not very sure what hair type you have, take this quick and accurate hair type quiz and you will have your answer in minutes.
If you have naturally curly tresses, that means you have Type 3 or Type 4 hair. However, this category can include different kinds of ringlets and textures. What you need to do to figure out which subtype is yours is to follow these steps:
After you have done this, see which one of the following hair subtypes matches your curly hair the best:
Your curls are on the looser side: not quite ringlets, but tighter than waves. Curls may be smooth and soft. Type 3A hair generally has visibly more volume than type 2 hair.
You have bouncy ringlets that give your hair depth and volume. Curls are closed and thicker in diameter, and they have a visibly rounded shape. They can easily become frizzy.
Your curls are the tightest and densest of all curly hair, but they are not full-blown coily. While your hair has abundant volume and is coarse and thick, it is also the most prone to dryness and frizzing of these subtypes.
If you can’t find your curly hair type in any of these categories, make sure you don’t have coily, type 4 hair (see the hair type quiz previously recommended). It can be easy to mix up these categories, especially if you have 4A curly hair, which can closely resemble 3C.
This hair type is coily, with tightly packed ringlets, but not yet fully Z-shaped. It is full and bouncy and has a springy texture, but can be difficult to brush and detangle due to its small and dense curls. Many people with Afro-textured hair have type 4A hair.
If your curls are angular, forming a visible zig-zag pattern, you may have type 4B hair. This involves dense, kinky, almost fluffy hair which is less bouncy and more prone to shrinkage than the previous subtype.
This is the curliest hair type possible, where the curls are so small that they can appear to have no discernable pattern. This hair subtype is denser than any other, but it can also be very dry and fragile, and experience significant shrinkage.
The main problems facing people with curly hair are that it can get tangled easily and it is prone to dryness and frizzing [1]. Here is the kind of care your hair needs, according to the subtype you’ve got.
The main focus when caring for your 3A hair is to keep it moisturised and nourished without weighing it down. Heavy hair growth oils, moisturising creams or conditioners can pull on looser curls, flattening them. So be sure to opt for lightweight oils (such as jojoba oil, avocado oil for hair, or grape seed oil).
The same goes for conditioners – they are very useful in keeping your hair tangle and frizz-free, but lighter formulas that are specifically designed for curly hair are preferable.
Finally, for added curl definition, let your hair air dry (this is also good for your hair health, as blow-drying can cause heat damage to your hair that can be hard to fix). You can also loosely braid it while it is still wet.
If you have 3B hair, you need to worry about moisturising and detangling it without causing unnecessary breakage. Brush your hair patiently at least twice a day, working out all the knots. And be sure that your hair is fully dry before doing so, as wet hair snaps more easily under tension [2].
You can use heavier essential oils for hair growth to moisturise 3B hair (e.g. rosemary oil for hair), as your curls are tight enough to hold them. They will keep your hair smooth and soft and easier to brush.
Don’t forget to use conditioner after every wash and be sure to get a gentle formula, without harsh chemicals such as sodium lauryl/laureth sulphate or parabens. Consider tying your hair loosely before bedtime to prevent frizzing.
This subtype faces dry, brittle hair which can break off easily, as well as intense frizzing. It is absolutely necessary to moisturise it daily with hair oils and to use deep-conditioning masks weekly or at least every two weeks.
Using shampoos and conditioners specifically designed for Afro hair can benefit your subtype as well, as it shares similar qualities with 4AB hair. These products normally contain ingredients meant to nourish and hydrate your tresses and reduce frizzing.
Gently detangle your hair several times a day and always sleep with it loosely tied, to prevent additional knotting. Sleeping on a silk pillowcase can benefit your hair as well, as it prevents friction that leads to frizzing and breakage.
4A hair is easy to maintain compared with 4B and 4C hair. The main hair care goal is to maintain moisture and preserve your curls’ natural elasticity and definition. That means your approach will be similar to that used for type 3A hair: using light moisturisers and conditioners.
Using lightweight but potent emollient oils such as argan oil for hair can keep your coily tresses soft, shiny and strong without weighing them down. Tea tree oil for hair can come in handy if you have an oily scalp or problems with dandruff.
However, since this curl type is coily and dense, brushing and detangling without breaking the strands can become problematic. You may want to use a wide-toothed Afro comb for this and employ plenty of patience.
This dryer, more fragile Z-shaped curl type requires daily moisturising with water-based leave-in products. Then, you can seal the moisture in by using heavier creams, such as shea butter. Furthermore, a weekly deep conditioning treatment will keep your curls well-nourished and in good shape.
Since coily hair can tangle very easily, it’s better to prevent tangling than to work out the knots. Keeping your hair loosely tied or braided can be a good way of achieving that, especially in bed at night. When you do detangle your hair, do so in small sections and use some leave-in conditioner if it is too tightly knotted.
If you are concerned about frizz (which affects all type 4 hair) you can use special smoothing shampoos and conditioners. And don’t forget to trim your ends regularly and to protect your hair from heat damage.
Type 4C curls are the most difficult to care for and keep in good health. That is because they are often dense, dry, brittle, and prone to matting and breaking. They need to be constantly moisturised with specific leave-in conditioners designed for Afro hair. Deep-conditioning masks every few days are also a must.
Applying conditioners and moisturisers can be a feat in itself when it comes to 4C hair. That is because the curls are so tight that the product can have a hard time penetrating the outside layer and getting to the hair underneath. Divide your hair into small, thin sections and work the hair oils and creams patiently into each of them at a time. This can be time-consuming, but it is crucial to maintain healthy, beautiful hair.
Special protective care must be taken not to break your 4C curls, which means they need to be styled as little as possible and only detangled in small sections, with plenty of conditioner on them. Try to keep your hair away from heat and sunlight whenever you can, and wrap it carefully in a scarf before going to bed.
Since type 3 hair includes different types of curls and textures, here are a few styling pointers for every subtype, to ensure your hair looks its best.
Your styling goal is to get as much definition for your curls as possible without weighing them down. So you only want to use lightweight mousses and curl-enhancing creams. The best way to get the product in your hair is by using the “praying hands” method: press your palms together over your hair to work it in without stretching the curls. Finally, after you achieve the look you desire, use a bit of light-hold hairspray to lock it in place and reduce frizz.
The styling goal for 3B hair is to keep your curls defined while controlling frizz. Use a curl cream to keep your ringlets’ natural shape. When you are happy with the result, apply some medium-hold gel to lock in their pattern and avoid frizzing. Work the products into your hair with a raking motion, then scrunch your locks up to encourage curling. For more volume, blow-dry it on a low-heat setting, using a diffuser.
If you have 3C hair, the styling goal is to control shrinkage and retain moisture. Rich, heavy styling products such as creams and hair butters can help you achieve this. Since your curls are very dense, you will need to divide them into sections and carefully apply the products to each one. Place some cream or oil on your fingers, gently grab a section from the root and use a gentle pulling motion to apply the product all the way down to the ends. Once your curls look good, apply an extra-hold gel or hairspray to keep them in place and reduce frizzing and tangling.
Your 4A hair styling goal is simply to showcase your natural curl pattern while maintaining its softness and bounce. This means you don’t need to use many styling products. The products you do use should be lightweight, so as not to weigh your hair down.
Wash-and-go hairstyles are excellent for highlighting your springy ringlets. A light-hold hairspray can also help maintain a perfect look and avoid frizzing.
If you have 4B curls, you need to style them in a way that prevents excessive tangling, frizziness and shrinkage. You can use heavier styling products, such as creams or butters, to increase your hair’s natural shine.
It is a good idea to opt for hairstyles that prevent tangling, such as loose ponytails, loose braids or updos. Bantu knots are a trendy style that can protect your curls from tangling and naturally stretch them at the same time. Just make sure not to tie them too tightly to avoid traction alopecia.
The key word with this type of curly hair is protection, as it is very fragile. Constant moisturising and protective hairstyles are necessary to prevent hair breakage and keep your fluffy tresses in good shape. All types of heat-styling and products containing harsh chemicals should be avoided with this hair type, as should wearing wash-and-go styles. However, you can naturally stretch out your hair and give it personality with traditional practices such as African threading.
Hair loss can affect anyone, regardless of their hair type. However, those with curly hair face an increased risk of unnecessary hair breakage, due to its lower tensile strength and its propensity to become dry and brittle.
The increased chances of knotting can also result in excessive broken hairs while brushing. So, while everyone should follow the advice below if they want to get healthy hair, it is especially important for curly hair types:
Now you have a better understanding of how to care for your curly hair, you can help improve its health and lustre.
However, each person is different — and so is your hair. If you would like to get a haircare routine that is tailored specifically to your needs and preferences, book a consultation today with one of our dedicated trichologists.
They will examine your curls closely and work with you to develop the perfect routine that will keep your tresses healthy, happy and radiant. And they can also recommend the best hair care and styling products that are both safe and effective for your unique hair qualities.
If you are curious to find out more about caring for the type of curly hair you have, read through the answers to these frequently asked questions.
It is a common myth that curly hair should be washed once or twice a week at most, to avoid drying it out. Science shows that washing your hair 5-6 times a week reduces hair loss, and can help control common scalp problems such as dandruff [4]. All you need to remember is to use a gentle shampoo and always condition and moisturise your hair after washing it. If your hair still feels dry, applying a leave-in conditioning hair mask can help.
Coconut oil is good for every curly hair type. It is lightweight but high in fatty acid content, and it is known to reduce hair porosity [5]. This oil can not only effectively moisturise your curls, it can also help repair damaged hair. And while more evidence is needed, it may also have some antimicrobial properties [6].
You can quickly and easily increase your type 3A curl definition by lightly spraying them with a solution made of water and a bit of leave-in conditioner. After spritzing them, scrunch them upwards gently with your hand a few times. You may also want to get rid of your split ends, as the frizziness they create can create the appearance of poorer curl definition.
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