Azelaic acid for hair growth is gaining interest in the world of research. This natural compound is known for its use in skin health serums and treatments, but there’s some promising research on its role as a treatment for hair loss.
Azelaic acid for hair growth may improve symptoms of androgenetic alopecia (pattern baldness). One study suggests its effects on female pattern hair loss may be similar to those of Minoxidil 2% [1], a proven treatment for this condition. In this article, we’ll explore:
Azelaic acid is a natural compound found in grains, such as barley, wheat and rye. It can improve skin health and is used in treatments for skin conditions like acne, rosacea, and melasma [2].
Azelaic acid has strong anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties [3], which can improve acne symptoms by targeting hair follicles (where acne often develops) [3]. Azelaic acid’s impact on hair follicle health has led to interest in its potential as a hair growth treatment.
It may be more effective as a hair growth treatment when combined with other substances, such as Minoxidil [4] or vitamin B6 [5].
To understand how azelaic acid may improve androgenetic alopecia (AGA), you must first understand how this condition works. Although the exact cause of pattern baldness needs further research, most researchers agree AGA is caused by a combination of genetics, hormones called androgens, and enzymes.
An enzyme called 5-alpha-reductase is present in nearly everyone’s bodies. This enzyme converts testosterone (male sex hormone) to dihydrotestosterone (DHT) (another male sex hormone).
DHT binds to androgen receptors in your hair follicles, which makes them shrink and stop producing hair [6]. When hair follicles shrink, they eventually stop producing hair altogether, leading to hair loss. In people with AGA, hair follicles are more sensitive to the effects of DHT. Alternatively, they may have higher levels of 5-alpha-reductase or a more active version, and, therefore, produce more DHT.
So, how does this relate to azelaic acid? Older research (from 1988) suggests azelaic acid is a 5a-reductase inhibitor [7], and this theory has been carried into modern research [4]. This means it may stop the action of the enzyme that converts testosterone into DHT, stopping hair follicles from shrinking and, therefore, reducing hair loss from AGA.
Scientists have tested this theory to see whether azelaic acid delivers real-life results for hair growth. Here’s what researchers found.
One study suggests the main side effect of topical azelaic acid is mild itching on the scalp [1]. The other group in this study also had an itchy scalp from Minoxidil. However, there are some more potential side effects to be aware of, including [11]:
Speak to your doctor for advice straight away if you experience any of the symptoms above.
Azelaic acid is available over the counter in most pharmacies and health shops. There are also online hair growth companies that offer it as part of a subscription delivery service.
Azelaic acid should be applied topically, meaning a few drops on your scalp once or twice a day. Massage it into your scalp, or you could try using a derma roller for hair growth to potentially increase absorption even more.
Different concentrations are available, ranging from 5% to 20%. If you haven’t used azelaic acid before, it’s best to start with a lower concentration and gradually build up the strength of the solution over time.
If you want to use other topical medications as well, such as Minoxidil, it’s best to discuss this with your doctor. Applying too many chemicals to the same area of skin may cause irritation.
Azelaic acid is one of many treatments that can improve hair growth in people with androgenetic alopecia. Other treatment options include:
Not sure which treatments are right for you? Book a consultation with one of our expert trichologists at the Wimpole Clinic.
These hair doctors will carry out a full assessment, including diagnostic trichology tests if needed. These may include blood tests for hair loss or a hair pull test. Once you know the reason your hair is falling out, they’ll work with you to create a comprehensive treatment plan.
Ready to get started on your hair growth journey? Find your nearest clinic location today.
Azelaic acid can improve hair growth with minimal side effects. The main side effect reported is mild itching, but overall, azelaic acid appears to be good for your hair and its growth.
Research suggests azelaic acid can stop the action of 5-alpha-reductase, the enzyme that converts testosterone into DHT. This prevents DHT production, so hair follicles don’t shrink and you stop losing hair.
Azelaic acid can reduce how much DHT your scalp produces. DHT stimulates hair growth on the face [16], but it is only likely to have an effect on facial hair if applied directly to the beard area. Even if a tiny amount of azelaic acid reaches your bloodstream after scalp application, effects on facial hair are very unlikely to materialise.
There’s very little evidence for azelaic acid combined with tretinoin for hair growth. Azelaic acid is good for hair growth, but tretinoin has been researched less. Further studies are needed on these two substances combined for hair growth before any conclusions can be made, but one study found no significant differences in hair growth between 5% minoxidil alone on the scalp compared to a combination of 5% minoxidil, 1.5% azelaic acid, and 0.01% tretinoin [9].
Yes! Azelaic acid for hair growth is applied topically — that is, directly onto your scalp in areas of hair loss. If you experience any burning, itching, or skin redness, discontinue use immediately and speak to your doctor before using it again.
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